Gardening Tips

by: Michael McGroarty

Don't be afraid to trim those flowering shrubs and trees that need it. Failure to prune is probably the biggest gardening mistake a person can make. I spent 20 years landscaping homes and businesses, and I watched people make the investment in my services, then they failed to prune when the plants needed it, and before you know it their landscape looked terrible.

If you make a mistake pruning, don't worry about it. It's like a bad haircut, it will grow out. Of course use common sense and read the previous articles that I've written on pruning.

Along with summertime comes high humidity. High humidity can cause a lot of problems with the plants in your garden and around your house. One of the simple things you can do is don't water just before dark. Make sure your plants are nice and dry when you tuck them in for the night and you can cut down on the chance of fungus being a problem.

One of the more common fungi that I get asked about a lot is powdery mildew. This appears as a white film on the leaves of ornamental plants. Dogwoods and Purple Sandcherry are often the victim of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew isn't extremely harmful to the plants, it's just that the foliage is damaged, and little growing takes place once it sets in. Your local garden center will have a general fungicide you can spray if you'd like to try and control it. Usually once the plant defoliates in the fall the plant is back to normal.

If you have Perennial Rye Grass in your lawn, and you probably do if you're in the north, you must be careful not to leave your grass wet at night. There is a fungus known as Pythium Blight that appears in very humid conditions. This fungus attacks and kills perennial rye grasses. Here in the north most of our lawns are a blend of fescues, perennial ryes, and Kentucky Blue Grass.

If you have problems with Pythium blight you will lose the perennial rye grass in large areas of your lawn, and even though the other grasses will still be there and fill in, your lawn will have areas that are much darker green than the rest of the lawn because you will then have concentrations of Kentucky Blue Grass.

You can see this fungus in the early morning. It looks like white cotton candy laying on top of your lawn. It usually appears along walks and driveways where the soil is wet if you have been watering. To prevent Pythium blight water as early in the day as possible.

Another nasty little blight that likes summertime is Fire Blight. Fire Blight attacks ornamentals, especially Apple trees, Crabapple trees, Cotoneasters, and Pyracantha. You know you have Fire Blight when a branch on one of your plants dies and turns almost red. The leaves usually hang on but turn reddish brown. The damage usually starts out near the end of the branch and works its way toward the main stem of the plant. There is little you can do except prune out the affected branch, cutting it as far back as possible.

Fire Blight is very contagious to plants so you should burn the branches you prune out. You should also dip or wash your pruning shears in rubbing alcohol after each cut to keep from spreading this deadly fungus.

Unfortunately, I've got one more summertime culprit to warn you about. It's a handy little fungus that grows in mulch. Actually there are all kinds of fungi that tend to grow in mulches, and most of them are really disgusting looking. But this little gem is unique in the fact that as it grows it tends to swell. Then somehow it manages to explode, and it will spatter your house with tiny brown specks. The experts have appropriately named this one “Shotgun Fungus”. Isn't that a cute name?

These tiny little brown specks will fly as high as eight feet into the air, and once they stick to your house or windows, they stick like glue. I know that right now there are people hollering across the house at their spouse, “Hey, remember those brown specks all over the house? I know what they are. It's from the mulch!” Tell me I'm wrong, but I know I'm not.

A lot of people are victims of this nasty little fungus, but they don't know it. All they know is that there are tiny brown specks on the house that look like paint. So far they have blamed everything from spiders to aliens.

There's not a lot you can do to prevent this fungus. I have found that if you keep the mulch loose so air can circulate it is less likely to grow fungi. Don't just keep adding layer after layer to the mulch around your house. You should skip at least every other year and just loosen the mulch you already have down. If you loosen it and then rake it flat it will look like you've just mulched. Mulch is great, just don't let it get packed down hard. Loosen it up at least once a year.

by: Michael McGroarty

Spring means that the garden centers are packed with people, and car trunks are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt on their knees, dirt under their nails, and is excited about gardening. To make certain that this excitement yields positive results, let's discuss the basics in this article of spring planting tips.

Installing new plants and having them grow successfully is not difficult, nor is it as complicated as some would have you think. Is it as easy as just digging a hole and setting the plant in? Yes, it certainly can be. I won't get into bed preparation, as I have covered that in other articles that are available at http://www.freeplants.com

Let's start with B&B plants. B&B is short for balled in burlap. Closely examine the ball on the plant that you have purchased. Did the diggers wrap twine around the ball to hold the plant secure? If they did, you should at least cut the twine and lay it in the bottom of the hole, or remove it completely. Pay close attention around the stem of the plant where it emerges from the root ball, as diggers often wrap the twine around the stem several times as they tie the ball. This is extremely important because if the string is nylon, it will not rot and will girdle and kill the plant two or three years from now.

When B&B plants are stored in the nursery for extended periods of time it becomes necessary to re-burlap them if the bottom starts to rot before the plants are sold. If the plant that you buy has been re-burlaped it is possible that there could be nylon stings between the two layers of burlap, so check the stem carefully. As long as the nylon string is removed from around the stem of the plant, it is actually harmless around the rest of the ball, and you do not have to remove it.

Is the root ball wrapped in genuine burlap, or imitation burlap made of a non-biodegradable plastic material?

Genuine burlap will rot quickly underground and does not have to be disturbed before planting. If you're not sure or suspect a poly type burlap, you don't have to remove it completely, but should loosen it around the stem of the plant and cut some vertical slices around the circumference of the ball.

Now here's the critical part. What kind of soil are you planting in?

If your soil is heavy clay, I highly suggest that you raise the planting bed at least 8” with good rich topsoil. If you can't do that for some reason, install the plant so that at least 2” or more of the root ball is above the existing grade and mound the soil over the root ball. Keep in mind that plants installed this way could dry out over the summer, but planting them flush with the ground in heavy clay can mean that the roots will be too wet at other times of the year.

The “experts” suggest that when planting in clay soil you dig the hole wider and deeper than the root ball and fill around and under the plant with loose organic material. That sounds like a really great idea, doesn't it? Some of these experts also recommend that you dig the hole extra deep and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom for drainage. Where do you suppose they think this water is going to “drain” to?

Keep in mind that most B&B plants are grown in well drained soil. That means that the soil in the root ball is porous and water can easily pass through. Now imagine if you will, a root ball about 15” in diameter, setting in a hole 30” in diameter. All around and under that root ball is loose organic matter. Inside of that root ball is porous soil. Now along comes Mother Nature with a torrential downpour. There is water everywhere, and it is not going to soak into that hard packed clay soil, so it is just flowing across the top of the ground searching for the lowest point.

When it reaches our newly planted tree surrounded by loose organic matter, it is going to seep in until the planting hole is completely full of water. (Remember my article on getting rid of standing water and the French drain system?) By using this planting technique we have actually created a French drain around our poor little plant that cannot tolerate its roots being without oxygen for long periods of time. Because the bottom of this hole is clay, even though we've added gravel for drainage, there is nowhere for the water to go, and this plant is going to suffer and likely die.

If you cannot raise the planting bed with topsoil, and are planting in clay soil, I recommend that you install the root ball at least 2” above grade and backfill around the ball with the soil that you removed when you dug the hole. Backfilling with the clay soil that you removed is actually like building a dam to keep excess water from permeating the root ball of your newly planted tree. The plant is not going to thrive in this poor soil, but at least it will have a chance to survive.

Once again, raising the bed with good rich topsoil is the best thing you can do to keep your plants healthy and happy.

No matter what kind of soil you have, be careful not to install your plants too deep. They should never be planted any deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Planting too deep is a common problem, and thousands of plants are killed each year by gardeners who just don't understand how critical planting depth is.

Staking newly planted trees is always a good idea. If your new tree constantly rocks back and forth when the wind blows it will have a very difficult time establishing new roots into the existing soil. Stabilize the tree with a stake. You can use a wooden stake, a fence post, or for small trees I often use 1/2” electro magnetic tubing, (conduit), available at any hardware store.

You can secure the tree to the stake with a single wrap of duct tape. In about six months or a year the sun will dry the glue on the duct tape and it will fall off. Check the tape to make sure that it has fallen off. You don't want to girdle the tree with the tape.

Container grown plants are much easier. Follow the rules for depth of planting as described earlier. Before gently removing the plant from the container, check the drain holes in the bottom of the container for roots that might be growing out the holes. If so, cut them off so they will not make it difficult to get the plant out of the container.

The easiest way to remove the plant from the container is to place your hand over the top of the container and turn it completely upside down and give it a gentle shake. The plant should slide right into your hand.

Examine the root mass as you hold it in your hand. Sometimes when plants have been growing in a container for a long time the roots start to grow in a circular pattern around the root mass. This is not good, and you should disturb these roots before planting so you can break this circular pattern. You can take a knife and actually make about three vertical slices from the top of the root mass to the bottom. This will stimulate new roots that will grow outward into the soil of your garden. Or you can just take your fingers and loosen the roots that are circling the root mass and force them outward before you plant them.

What about fertilizer, bone meal, peat moss, and all those other additives they are going to try and sell you at the garden center?

Raise your planting beds with good rich topsoil and forget about the additives. Be very careful with fertilizers, they can do more harm than good. I landscaped my house 14 years ago and I haven't got around to fertilizing the plants yet, and have no intention of doing so. They look great.

As far as bone meal and all those other soil additives are concerned, don't get too caught up in all that stuff. The only thing that I know for sure is that they will make your wallet thinner, but I don't think you'll see a difference in your plants. Over the years I've landscaped several hundred homes with fantastic results, and I never added any of these additives to my planting beds.

Did I mention planting in good rich topsoil? That's the secret!

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by: Louanne Baelde

Watering is one of the most tedious tasks with greenhouse gardening, as these types of indoor gardens require much more water. Watering your greenhouse improperly could cause you to lose your crops. This article will help you to learn ways to make your daily chore much easier while fabulously reaping the benefits.
When To Water
It’s always best to water your plants in the evening, rather than during the hot daytime hours.
Plants made up of soil-less composts, need more water because they get dry more quickly.
The best way to kill your plants is to water them simply out of routine of doing it. Make sure not to over-water them, but at the same time, assure that they have the amount of moisture that they need.
Larger and more mature plants need more water than young new plants. Take care to take the proper measures to water them accordingly. When your older plants start drooping, it may be time to take out the watering can!
The plants in your greenhouse will require less water during the dormant season of the coldest weather usually in December and January.
Keeping the floor wet in your greenhouse in the very hot summer days, will help to keep moisture in the air for your crops.
Hand-Watering
At times it may be hard to predict the amount of moisture that is in a plant pot, especially if it has a lot of peat-based compost. Try pressing your fingers gently into the top of the soil mixture inside of the pot.
Another way to guess the level of moisture is to use moisture indicators in a few select pots.
Larger plants that have been established for some time will benefit most with less forceful watering. This can be accomplished by breaking the force of the water dispersing from the watering can. Sometimes a small piece of cloth will do the trick. Small seeds definitely need to be watered with a very gentle spray. This can be done by pointing the rose of the watering can in an upward motion.
Hand-watering is still the most dominant method of greenhouse garden irrigation, even in today’s competitive markets. After frequent crop losses however, many growers are realizing that it may be time to change their traditional ways.
Overhead Spraying
Many of us prefer to have a spray mechanism when watering the greenhouse garden. It is possible to purchase several different designs of tubing that can be suspended overhead from the roof of your greenhouse. Some water spraying systems will spray in two-sided directions; others will spray water to only one side. You will have to select the type of tube design that you need and prefer.
Improvising
Although it is possible to buy specially designed systems with reservoirs, you can improvise to save money. This way works wonderfully. Find a lengthy piece of plastic gutter and use it as a reservoir by inserting one end of the capillary mat. Capillary mats allow the plants to be watered from the base of the container, where the capillary action of the compost takes place. Just sit your plants on top of the mat. The gutter should be always filled with water. You can do this by hand-watering it or by creating a drip system with the simple use of water bags.
Simple drip water system kits can be purchased with minimal cost for those that would prefer this method. These kits include usually about six drip valves that can be synchronized. Some kits even have adjustable water and fertilizer flow.
You can also pick up a combination of mist-like sprayers and adjustable dripper kits.
It is often best to have automatic watering systems that can do the job when the owner or part-time hobbyist is away at work or away even for short periods of time. Timers or automatic sensors can be applied to help as well with this task.
Allow me to share this quotation:
The most noteworthy thing about gardeners is that they are always optimistic, always enterprising, and never satisfied. They always look forward to doing something better than they have ever done before. Vita Sackville-West
For more great gardening tips and gardening free stuff, please visit http://www.ez-gardening-tips.com
Free to Publish, but may not be edited in any way and resource link must remain.

by: Gordon Hall

Gardening does not need to stop after your autumn harvest. Even in winter, you can plant herbs and where weather permits winter crops, such as lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, silver beet and spinach, brussels sprouts, broccoli, broad beans and finally onions and beetroot.
Winter can also be a good time to be planting herbs such as sage and thyme, dill, mint, parsley and chives.
Some gardeners plant lettuce direct into the ground in rows. however you can sprinkle some lettuce seeds in a small area close together and prick out the largest of the lettuce seedlings to sow, this way you can spread your crop over a longer period.
If your ground is not going to be covered three foot deep in snow you could try sowing Arugula, sow direct in rows 10 centimetres apart (3.9in). Arugula is sometimes called Rocket, Roquette or Italian Cress. It has a peppery nut flavour.
You can start harvesting when the leaves are 7 or 8cm long (2.76in to 3.15in), taking just a few leaves at a time. Grow virtually the same as cabbage. Arugula is a cool weather crop, it runs to seed early in hot weather. Harvest in 30 to 60 days.
Broad Beans can be grown in rows, 50CM apart (19.69in), directly, sow seed 20cm apart (7.87in), sow 5 centimeter deep (1.97in),These beans are good for cool climates. Sow while the temperature remains between 5 degrees Celsius to 18 degrees Celsius (41f to 64.4f). You find the short pod type tends to mature later and gives a fatter bean.
harvest in 120 days Plant all of your fruit trees during the winter too. Spray existing fruit trees with a copper-based fungacide as the buds begin to swell.
Winter is also a good time to prune existing fruit and ornamental trees while they are bare. You can also prune grape and berry bushes and vines during Winter.
If you want to plant bare rooted roses, do that in Winter too.
But most of all...have fun and remember a garden can be very forgiving.

by: Roger King

Some of the most spectacular gardening is on the rooftops and patios of the world's largest cities. Today's homeowners and apartment dwellers do not have to discard gardening. In fact, they can create their own garden hideaway.

Gardening in small space means you plant in containers, choose plants carefully, grow up on trellises instead of outdoor, hang plants from something overhead. Herbs, vegetables, shrubs, and citrus fruits can all be grown in containers. More and more vegetable varieties are available specifically for container growing.

For small-space growing people can grow in everything from custom-made pottery to clay pots and wooden planters. Your gardening containers must have drainage holes at the bottom. Cover the holes with a section of window screen so the soil doesn't leak out.

Get a bag of dry, soulless mix for container gardening. You need to soak the soil with water before planting. This process can be messy, so plan ahead and do it outside if possible. Moisten only as much as you'll need for the current task.

Keep an eye on your gardening container. It can dry out quickly in hot weather. If you really get into it, you might want to consider a drip irrigation system. This is a network of plastic tubing that can be regulated to provide a constant moisture supply to your plants.

Most plants need an average of 1 inch of water every week. You should try to water your garden plants earlier in the day, so the sun can help dry off any water left on the plant. If you see a plant drooping, be sure to water it, because some plants wilt and do not recover if they dry out.